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Blog may 7

Sitting in the jungle contemplating the last month of our journey.  We fell in love with Indonesia where people were so incredibly kind and helpful, and scenery both natural and cultural was amazing.  We went to 3 of Indo's 17,000 islands - Bali, Nusa Lembongan (technically still bali) and Java.  Bali captivated me with its beautiful architecture elements. Doors intricately carved out of wood, temples built in family homes, and just the care and precision in construction.  One day i went on a short hike from Ubud along a river, through rice paddies and into a small village.  Along the way there were men building a new temple which is no small feat when all construction elements  are done by man not machine - but the most amazing part was seeing large slabs of stone and poured concrete on the walls transformed by local carvers  into gods and idols in amazing designs.  I loved the representation of Hinduism and despite similarities found the Hindu culture very different than parts of India that I have visited.  Every morning the women prepare an offering to the gods and demons.  These are prepared on a banana leaf or in a woven basket and include different natural items (I'm told that is what the gods like) such as flowers, rice, cakes, biscuits, sometimes money, and usually incense.  These looked beautiful and smelled amazing all through town- they were literally in front of every house, store, driveway, in cars, by bridges....everywhere.  Historically they were prepared from scratch by women but now they buy lots of the items in the market.  Time in Bali was relaxing (we had many hotels WITH pools!), rejuvinating, and inspiring - just what the doctors ordered for Matt's back and our overall health (full body one hour massages cost $6).

Then we travelled over land and by ferry to Java and we saw a different side of Indonesia.  First of all this island is extremely populated and mostly Muslim.  Gone were the carvings, and offerings replaced with very loud call to prayer 5 times a day. This is blasted over loud speakers distributed throughout all towns and cities and seemed to be generally pointed into our room!  At 4:30 am it goes off for the first time and shockingly I enjoyed it, found it quite beautiful and used the woken minute or two to think positively about my own day or week.  One morning we woke at 3 to go to Borobodur temple (one of the largest Buddhist temples in the world) and were actually wide awake for the call, and to see the city sleeping but know that this was a time that most would arise to pray with their family was pretty neat.  Java also provided us with some spectacular natural sites.  Another 3 am (2am for us because we overlooked the time change between Bali and Java - couldnt figure out why they weren't more organized...) wake up this time to visit Mt. Bromo.  This is an active volcano in and amongst a "volcano field" that was well worth the early rise.  We took a 4wd jeep up part of the mountain and then had a short but steep climb to the sunset view point.  Because of the heat of the volcanoes there was huge amounts of heat lightning just about the caldera's!  The sunrise was beautiful and was quickly followed by a huge blanket of cloud filling the valley and creeping up the sides of the volcano.  We drove through the mist and again had a short but steep climb to get to the lip of the active volcano! Once the sun burned through the fog we were able to see into the hot hole and watch massive spurts of steam and sulphuric vapour spew from it.  No lava but really cool.

We travelled overland through Yogyakarta where we rode around in Beceks which are small carts you sit in pushed around by a guy (usually pretty old) on a bike aka bicycle rickshaw in other countries. Apparently bought art from the local mafia? Visited the palace of the Sultan (apparently these still exist?) and ate lots of delicious food from sketchy looking carts on the street (the more awful it looked seemed to correlate with best taste!).  This was a good opportunity to see crazy city life was a good contrast to Cianjur where we travelled next to experience more village life.  After a train, a bus and then a mini bus (totalling more that 12 hours and costing about $25) we were dropped of in the middle of a neighbourhood at the apparent address we had provided the driver with.  In the past we have stayed at "home stays" but this was legitimately staying in a home with a married couple and their child.  It turned out to be one of the best parts of our trip and definately memorable.  We were immediately treated like family including having our laundry done by the cleaning lady! Over the next few days we met a few other like minded travellers and experienced different lives in the village including an English tutor, a fisherman and fish farmer living in a floating village, a rice farmer, a brown sugar maker, and a plastic recycling sorter as we were brought all over on the back of a motorbike or in the back of a "ute" (see previous blog for explanation).  We finally went karaokeing with our local guides/friends and saw an Indonesian rock band play at a fair.  We even went to a "water park" which was very strange, compounded by the fact that I had to wear all my clothes in the water over my bikini to be respectful to the Muslim women also there.  It was incredible and very unlike other "tours" which many of you know I don't generally like.  In the village up in the rice paddies where we ate so much fresh brown sugar just cooked from the sap of the palm we lied on the floor of a woman's house who we had just shared lunch with and had an afternoon nap while one at a time we got a massage by the local "masseur"- it was magical!  

We finished up Indo in Jakarta with the other 16 million people that live there.  While looking for the port we got lost in the very small alleyed paths of a neighborhood.  A rare opportunity to see into houses and get a feel for everyday life.  Tourists were obviously strange to be seen but after a glance people went on with their evening. Call to prayer happened while we were there and all the men were coming out of their homes to go to the mosque- very cool.  I really wanted to get into a sweatshop while I was there and went so far as to set up an account as a textile buyer and emailed many factories....but shockingly none got back to me.  I will go back to Indonesia and highly recommend  it, we felt very safe, very taken care of (at the slightest look of being lost someone usually jumped to help).  Despite many surviving on less than 1million rupiah each month or $100, people we met always smiled and made life seem like it was enough.  People have shelter, food and clean clothes and work hard to get kids to school but they are very happy.  Yudi told us "people in Canada have lots of money but they don,t have time...Indonesians have lots of time but no money....we strive to balance the two".  

Another long one....looking for feedback on the blog writing as we head into half way mark.  Do you read it? Do you like it? Do you wish was shorter, longer? Do you like types of stories? Do you want more of something or less? 

Om shanti....

Feeling a total calm on a beautiful Balinese balcony with ocean lapping the shore just below me, it seems a great time to finally blog.  As expected the last 2 months have been a whorlwind tour of NZ, and being in Indonesia is about something so different than getting to places, or seeing sites- in fact it requires little movement to be happy - it is about the sounds, the smells, and the small things.  Balinese people are kind and laugh a lot, and the music that is often heard reminds me of the chiming relaxation tones used for final vinyasa  in yoga.  In front of every door and throughout property are small offering baskets we think to ward of evil and bring good luck to family or business they are full of flowers, sometimes money, sometimes food- perhaps depending on what you wish to come.  There is beautiful insense burning everywhere reminding me that I have finally arrived back to Asia, and again it just smells so calming.  And the architecture is intricate, calculated and made mostly from wood - concerning me a little as I know that deforestation is a major issue in Indonesia (certainly the topic of a later blog when we venture from the coast).

But, in my calm found in Bali,  I do not want to leave you out of incredible experiences in Australia!

Highlights definately were all the moments spent with friends- Eamon in Melbourne, Sandy and Steve in Blue Mountains (infamous mother of Steve Burroughs), Aleisa in Manly, and Tim (the Captain) in Darwin. These were the times we got a glimpse into real life in Australia and all were amazing hosts to us.  In Melbourne finally understanding cricket and Aussie rules was made possible through info sessions, lessons and seeing each in action.  Cheering for your favourite AFL team is great but I learned not to taunt on trains enroute to the game or else be considered a "bogan" and risk a brawl.  Eamon also shared the Great Ocean Rd....see previous blog....  Aleisa (a Canadian from Ottawa living in Australia for last 9 years) showed us why aussie life is so tempting- I have never dreamed of popping down to the ocean for a snorkel to start my day....and as a Marine Biologist it is no wonder this place holds on to her as this country has weirdest, diverse  wildlife everywhere you go.  The Blue Mountains was a special trip for me....aside from being stunning ( and the place we got to hang out and watch Kangaroos hop about), it was enroute to a place called Tamworth!  Anyone in Aus questioned this as a destination at any other time of year other than January when they host major country music festival- but this place was special to me as the long lost birthplace of my grandmother who was brought to Canada when she was 6 and was adopted here.  I feel so much connection to my grandmother and have always wanted to be able to see where she originated.  Finally meeting up with Tim in Darwin in the Northern Territory (NT) where things are done a little different than the rest of the country....needless to say I loved it, and sorry Tony and Steve but NT was my favourite part of Australia :). 

Darwin is on the Ocean but minimal distance to the untamed "outback".  Tim took us to a small (500 ppl) aboriginal community where he used to teach.  We almost didn't get to go because the community was under 14m flood water and inaccessible by car as water had made the road into community impassable....but in true Tim fashion we decided to go anyways.  What an interesting time for us as I have never been in an area affected by a natural disaster and was amazed how people responded - very calmly in fact.  Kids were off on school holidays and there was no where to go unless you had a boat - the school field was under water.  There was also the added excitement because flood waters brings salt water crocks into the are....this became real one day when we heard the sound of shotgun close to the home we were staying in...a 3 m (small really) croc had been trapped less than 200m from where we were! The trappers dragged it to the shore in the middle of town and put it on display as a warning to the kids not to swim....we (I include myself with the small children) got to feel it, move it, touch the big teeth....very cool!  We had meals and conversations with some locals who gave us our first look into Australian culture and way of life- incredible.  Despite bad conditions caused by flood water we made many efforts to fish for the infamous Baramundi!  Using a technique deigned by me and not known to avid fisherman I almost caught three! Unfortunately my excitement at the fear and thought of catching on caused screaming and jerking and I lost the all (but got to see them all which was almost good enough for me!).  On the way home from Daly Tim pulled of the road occasionally where I saw nothing, but apparently he saw a track, 4wd to stunning creeks and waterfalls to swim in (Darwin is REALLY unrelentingly  hot).  We camped at a "site" called black fellow creek - politically appropriate according to the aboriginal people we met - where we gathered wood for a fire hoping and praying not to stumble upon one of the "harmless" pythons or deadly brown snakes.  We cleared giant webs with golden orb spiders in them away from the creek so we could swim, and set up our traps in the water to catch some dinner....I know you can't see my expression as I write this but even the memory o the place brings a smile from ear to ear...it was so cool.  In our traps we caught yabbies like crayfish and fried them...I was skeptical for only a moment and then dove in.  We ate them throughout the night....there is something amazing about catching your own food.  Oh yah another strange thing when we were driving down the road there was a wallaby strung to the front grill...I thought it was a cute stuffed animal joke like we might have in Canada only to find out it was a real animal that they had either hit or shot and were taking home to eat...haha.

I am constantly in awe of how lucky I am to be doing what I am doing.  A lifetime of experiences on this trip...so many that it is impossible for me to even come close in this blog without yammering on forever....

Chilling out in Aus

Arrived yesterday too Byron Bay after a fun night out with Aleisa and roommate Matt in Manly....for a chill town fancier dress than I possess in my backpack was required!  Aleisa lives in a gorgeous place with a  view of they Ocean from the deck (and shower...).  Great place to wake up Saturday morning, a quick walk or lazy drive down to beach for a snorkel before heading to the airport....huge fish, and Matt even saw a blue ringed octopus (one of the most venomous creatures in the world!). 

After a carbon offset flight (for all of you ready to wave your finger at us flying) we arrived in this great town just in time for Earth hour! We are staying at a place called Arts Factory which is this tropical Eco paradise with bush turkeys and water dragons coexisting with campers and backpackers. They had a homemade recycled lantern craft session and turned all the lights out for the hour lighting with property with candles.  Tons of people chatting, and jamming on drums and acoustic guitars...it was pretty amazing.  Matt and I topped the night off with a delicious bottle of wine we had picked up during our wine tasting impromptu tour in Hunter Valley.  I thought of our years of Earth hour at PDHS and hoped that you were able to have an event this year despite the politics.  Today we are heading to the beach for the morning, and may spend the afternoon around the pool....sorry Canada.  

Aussie slang

Heard this on the radio and thought I would share it..sometimes it is like interpreting a different language!

Travelling on the cheap in a rich world

Another town, another library...meaning more free internet!  We are currently in a gorgeous library in downtown Melbourne.  It has been a "tough" week so far...arrived at got picked up at the airport by the wonderful Eamon (a friend of Matts from Whistler) always an otherwise expensive venture as airports are generally out of town.  He was also gracious enough to let us stay with him and show us a great Aussie week including time at his parents beach house that had Koala's in the Eucalyptus tree outside of his door, travel along the "Great Ocean Road" which was in fact pretty great, view of the stunning eroded coastal limestone structures called the "12 Apostles" where we also got to see our first kangaroos while driving home in the dark (great for us, less great for Eamon who was driving and swerving around them).  Tomorrow we are going to an Aussie Rules footie game and out on the town which should be crazy because there is also a Nascar GrandPrix event.  Staying with Eamon has allowed us enough budget to eat delicious food and even afford some drinks and luxuries like ice cream, alternatively we would be resorting to the accustomed peanut butter sandwiches, toast, and pasta that we were consuming a lot of in NZ.  Travelling in first world countries is a major shock to my system.  Most of my travel previously has been in countries where accomodation is less than $20 a night and food can be bought for dollars on the street.  As a result in NZ we had to often get creative....especially since most of the things we really wanted to see had a very expensive (out of budget) tour attached to it.  For example in Rotorua - a geographers DREAM land with the ground bubbling and spewing steam all over the place from underground volcanic hot spots - the cheapest tour was $80 each....instead we parked in distant lots and waited to catch a glimpse at the massive Geyser (spewing steam), and then walked for a long time around town to see other features.  We might not have seen the same mud pool or the biggest hot spring that pictures showed, but instead we found random spots in obscure places - like in peoples backyards! We also dug mud out of a pond that was so hot it could burn you. We found a cheap hotel that didnt look the best but had free hot pools fed by their own underground spring and saved from paying extra to go to the spa. We found free Maori villages where people still went to pray and meet instead of paying for tours.  Many days I think not being able to afford to have the attractions presented to us on a silver platter with the "take your picture now" guide gives us an opportunity to see more, learn more and have a better appreciation for the actual places we are visiting rather than just the attractions.  NZ was a place that often made you feel small, surrounded by mountains, glaciers, and the Ocean.  National Parks are free and offer incredible views of incredible places and also really cool geology (I have annoyed Matt a little with my new found obsession with rocks, patterns in rocks, wanting to know where the rocks came from and how have the rocks changed....etc.).  Being cheap has "forced" us into basic picnics on the side of road at rest stops overlooking gorges, raging rivers, and green rolling hills.  I also got to knock a major must off my bucket list and saw two different types of penguins (Fjordland Penguin, and the Little Blue Penguin) on two different seas in one day.  Although our budget is blown for NZ, the experience and images in our head are worth every penny.

A long and winding road....

Certainly a theme song for travel across New Zealand.  As we come to the end of our tourist scurry we reflect on where we have gone and what we have seen.  Roads in many areas of this country require NASCAR training to even fathom reaching the speed limit around hair pin turns that use mirrors to show you if oncoming traffic is going to push you off the road.  Of course driving on the left added a couple other gasps, turning into oncoming traffic lanes or irritating local drivers with Improper yields....kiwis are incredibly friendly but don't piss them off when driving - we encountered many with very little patience as indicated by blaring horns.  We have travelled more than 3500 km in the last 3.5 weeks and have seen incredible things.  Some of the natural highlights were the biggest tree I have ever seen called the square kauri (threatened species due to invasive pests), miles and miles of pristine coast line that never failed to take my breath away every time the road came out of the forest and connected with it- this was especially appreciated hiking the "Great" Abel Tasman trail where we alternated hiking with swimming on white sandy beaches.  Continuing on the south seeing alpine glaciers on top of incredible granite mountains, and then seeing fjord land penguins while cruising through the fjords of the Tasman Sea....oh and then there were the geysers and natural hot springs escaping the ground in Rotorua...wow. Getting kicked out of library so TBC

The world is ours for discovery part 2

Exactly one week into our trip and already the struggles to get here are long forgotten - left in the Pacific Ocean somewhere between LA and Fiji.  Just one incredible story to share as I will let the pictures say the rest. On Nacula Island in Fiji we stayed at a family run "resort" a term I use lightly as not to conjure up images of Caribbean all inclusives....anyways at this lovely place in the middle of coral filled turquoise sea one of the main sources of food is naturally fish.  One of the best ways to catch lots of fish is at night when the fish are sleeping...by night snorkel diving with a spear...Matt and I wanted to experience this so casually asked if we could join them one night, and they agreed!  We borrowed one of the locals spears and actually got to go out into the dark star filled night and take part.  Using an underwater flashlight and snorkelling gear we swam around in search for fish large enough to catch which due to the fact that they were sleeping and immobile should have been like shooting fish in a barrel but it was not.  When we did find a fish it was super hard to keep them on the simplistic homemade spear which was essentially rebar attached to a glorified rubber band, and to make it more difficult many were a 3-5 m dive away.  We successfully got no fish but the locals we were with found enough to take back to the village for a couple days.  The failure was irrelevant, being in the coral in the dead of night was surreal - especially when we swam past 3 6-7ft Nurse sharks hunting! These are the moments that make a trip, the unplanned, unorganized moments to take part in a world so foreign to our own.  Incredible!

Unfortunately as a result of this amazing experience I have vertigo...so even on land it is like I am in a boat. A small price to pay.   

"The roller coaster is my life; life is a fast, dizzying game; life is a parachute, jump!" Paulo Cohelo